3dae Samgyejangin (Hong Yoo/The Korea Herald) The ttukbaegi earthenware pot came to the table still boiling, and the broth inside was so white it looked closer to porridge than soup. That was dinner on a recent weekday at 3dae Samgyejangin in Seocho-gu, Seoul, one of the restaurants where Seoulites will be queuing on Friday. Aug. 14 is malbok, the last of the three hottest days of summer that Koreans call boknal. The three days are determined by the traditional 60-day cycle rather than the lunar calendar. Chobok, the first, landed on July 15 this year, and jungbok followed on July 25. This year, the gap between jungbok and malbok stretches to 20 days instead of the usual 10, a configuration known as wolbok that traditionally signals a long, late summer. On all three days, Koreans eat boyangsik, restorative food meant to carry the body through the heat. Chicken dominates the category, whether as samgyetang, baeksuk (simmered chicken) or fried chicken, and eel and chueotang (loach soup) run a close second for anyone chasing stamina. Samgyetang made with pine nuts (Hong Yoo/The Korea Herald) Classic is best, so start with the samgyetang. 모바일 온라인손오공릴게임 3dae Samgyejangin has been in the same family since 1973 and is now run by the third generation. The dining room is wide and wood paneled, with an open kitchen that puts the cooking on display. The banchan (side dishes) are spare and sharp: cucumber peppers, raw garlic, seasoned chives and kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi). The three signature soups, priced at 19,500 won ($13.80) each, are built on a broth simmered with more than 40 ingredients and finished with finely ground pine nuts, mung beans or mugwort. The chicken is cooked slowly for three days, then steamed in a siru, a perforated earthenware vessel set over boiling water, and a strand of wild ginseng root sits on top. The pine nut version has the thick, nutty body of jatjuk (pine nut porridge), and when chicken stock meets ground pine nuts, it tastes mild and gently salty. The young spring chicken gives way at the bone with almost no effort. Inside are whole garlic cloves, jujubes, chestnuts and ginkgo nuts, with scallions and shredded ginseng scattered over the surface. Two things are worth knowing beforehand. 다빈치릴게임 The soup arrives dangerously hot, so pulling the meat into a separate bowl to cool is standard practice. And unlike other samgyetang restaurants, the glutinous rice is not stuffed in the chicken. It comes separately in a small bowl, to be stirred into the remaining broth with a pinch of salt once the meat is gone. That last bit is the best part of the meal. The restaurant holds a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide Seoul and picked up a ribbon in this year's Blue Ribbon Survey. Lines get long, so go early. Youdark Story (Hong Yoo/The Korea Herald) Koreans have a phrase for the logic behind eating boiling soup in the summer. Iyeolchiyeol, roughly "fight fire with fire," holds that raising the body's temperature from the inside helps it cope with the heat outside rather than shocking it with cold. Not everyone is built for that. For those who wilt at the thought of a scalding ttukbaegi in 33 degree Celsius weather, there is chogyeguksu, a cold noodle dish that still delivers the chicken protein. Korea has three great cold noodle dishes, and chogyeguksu sits alongside naengmyeon and kongguksu. Youdark Story, near Yonsei University in Seodaemun-gu, is a dakhanmari (whole chicken soup) specialist that also received a Blue Ribbon this year. 온라인파칭코 Its summer-only Misari Chogyeguksu comes in broth and bibim versions at 12,000 won each. The room is covered in figurines, Marvel posters and framed photos of visiting celebrities. On a weekday lunch, it was full, with students from nearby campuses seated beside neighborhood regulars, and most tables had ordered dakhanmari, a whole chicken simmered at the table. Chogyeguksu (Hong Yoo/The Korea Herald) The chogyeguksu arrives with an icy slush floating on the surface. The broth is sweet and sour enough to reset the appetite on its own. The noodles are firm and chewy, and the toppings are shredded chicken, cucumbers, radishes and white kimchi. "I'm from Busan, and summer there really means milmyeon (cold wheat noodles), so I tried chogyeguksu for the first time after moving to Seoul. The ice-cold broth cools you down, and the sweet and sour taste brings your appetite back, so in Seoul I find myself reaching for chogyeguksu over milmyeon," said a 23-year-old university student. Boiling or iced, the goal is the same. One bowl works from the inside out, the other from the outside in, and both send a diner back into the heat with a little more left in reserve. d framed p